Home Name the piece Jackets and coats

Chapter 2

What kind of coat is that?

Outerwear is the one category where the garment often has a proper name of its own. Learn eleven of them by sight and most coats need no describing at all.

Why do coats have proper names when other clothes do not?

A pair of jeans is described by measurements: a rise, a leg shape, a length. There is no single word that means high rise straight leg cropped. Outerwear works the other way round. A trench coat is a trench coat, and that one word carries the length, the closure, the belt, the collar and the fabric all at once.

This changes the job. On denim you assemble a phrase out of parts. On a coat you first ask whether the garment is one of the recognised archetypes, because if it is, the archetype name beats any description you could write.

Only when nothing fits do you fall back to describing it, and then the three things worth describing are the length, the closure and the lapel.

Which eleven coats should you recognise by sight?

These are the coat names shops use as categories, which means searching one of them puts you inside a filtered list rather than a general search.

  1. Trench. Double breasted, belted, cotton gabardine, with a storm flap over one shoulder and a collar that fastens. Usually knee length.
  2. Peacoat. Short, hip to mid thigh, double breasted, heavy wool, with wide notched lapels and large buttons in two columns.
  3. Overcoat. Long and tailored, cut to go over a jacket, usually wool, knee length or below. Single or double breasted.
  4. Car coat. An overcoat cut shorter, roughly mid thigh, originally so it did not bunch when sitting down.
  5. Parka. Long, hooded, insulated, with a drawstring at the waist and often a fur or faux fur trim around the hood opening.
  6. Puffer. Quilted into channels and filled with down or a synthetic. Any length. The quilting is the defining feature.
  7. Bomber. Short, zip front, with ribbed cuffs and a ribbed hem that gathers at the waist, giving a blouson shape.
  8. Harrington. Short and light, zip front, with a standing collar and usually a checked lining. Flatter than a bomber through the body.
  9. Chore coat. Boxy and unstructured, button front, with patch pockets on the front, cut in cotton twill or canvas.
  10. Duffle. Hooded, fastened with toggles through rope or leather loops rather than buttons. Usually heavy wool.
  11. Moto or biker. Short, asymmetric zip set off to one side, wide notched lapels that fold back, usually leather.

One more worth knowing because it is recent and shops file it strictly: a shacket is cut like an oversized shirt, with a shirt collar and a button front, in a fabric heavy enough to work as a layer. Searching for a thick shirt will not find one. Searching for a shacket will.

What do you search when the coat has no proper name?

If the coat is not one of the above, the closure is the highest value thing to name, because it is unambiguous in a photo and it splits the category hard.

Double breasted means two columns of buttons with the fronts overlapping across the chest. Single breasted is one column with the fronts meeting edge to edge. That one distinction removes half of any result set.

Beyond buttons: a zip front, a toggle fastening through loops, snaps or press studs, a wrap with no fastening at all held by a belt, and open front for a coat built with no closure on it whatsoever.

A belt is worth mentioning separately because shops treat it as a feature rather than a closure. A belted coat and a wrap coat are filed differently: the first has a belt over a buttoned front, the second is held closed by the belt alone.

What kind of lapel is that?

On any coat with a folded collar, the lapel shape is the most identifying single detail, and almost nobody searching thinks to name it.

  1. Notch. A visible step cut into the outer edge where the collar meets the lapel, leaving a small V-shaped gap. The most common by a distance.
  2. Peak. No gap, and the lapel point angles upward towards the shoulder. Reads as sharper and more formal.
  3. Shawl. One continuous curve from the neck down the front, with no break or point anywhere.

Coats without lapels have their own words that are just as searchable: a funnel neck stands up around the throat with no fold, a collarless coat finishes at the neckline with nothing added, and a hood replaces the question entirely.

How reliable are coat length words?

Skirt length words are disciplined. Outerwear length words are not, and it is worth knowing that before you rely on them.

The scale runs cropped, hip length, mid thigh, knee length, then longline or maxi for anything continuing towards the ankle. Different shops draw those lines in different places, and the same garment can be filed as mid thigh by one and knee length by another.

So read the photo against the wearer's body rather than trusting the word. Where does the hem sit against the knee? That is the fact. The word is an approximation of it, and it is the slot to drop first when a search returns nothing.

What are the words for a padded coat?

Insulated coats have a vocabulary of their own, and it is unusually precise because it affects the price.

The stitch pattern comes first. Channel quilting runs in straight horizontal lines. Diamond quilting forms a lattice. Box quilting makes squares. The width matters as much as the pattern: wide baffles read as a serious winter coat, and narrow ones as a light layer.

The filling is either down, meaning feathers, or a synthetic fill. You cannot tell which from a photo, so leave it out of the search and check it on the listing instead. It is the main reason two visually identical puffers can be priced differently.

What can you read from a coat being worn?

A photo of a person in a coat gives you more than a product shot does, if you know what to look at.

Worn open, you can see the lapel shape, the lining and how the front edge is built. That is the best case, and it is why an open coat is usually the better frame to screenshot.

Worn closed, the lapel is folded flat against the chest and much harder to read, but the closure is obvious and the silhouette is clean. Look for the button columns.

Belted tightly, be careful. A belt pulled in makes a straight coat read as a fitted one, and you may end up searching for a shape the garment does not have. Look at the shoulders and the hem width instead, which the belt does not change.

How do you turn a photo of a coat into a search?

A screenshot of someone in a camel coat, two columns of buttons across the chest, lapels with a small step cut into them, the hem falling just below the knee, in a fabric with visible weave.

Ask the archetype question first. Is it a trench? No belt and no storm flap, so no. A peacoat? Too long. What is left is a tailored coat, so describe it: double breasted, notch lapel, knee length, wool, camel.

The phrase is camel double breasted wool overcoat notch lapel. If that returns too little, drop the lapel first, since it is the term shops omit most often.

For what the photo itself needs, why an open coat photographs differently from a buttoned one and how the season a screenshot was taken in works against you, there is a separate post on finding a coat or jacket from a photo that goes further into the shot itself.

Is a blazer a coat or a jacket?

More outerwear searches fail on this than on anything else, so it is worth stating plainly.

A blazer is tailoring, not outerwear. It has structured shoulders and lapels, and none of the construction that makes a coat a coat: no storm flap, no weather-resistant fabric, no insulation. Shops file blazers in a completely separate category.

So if you are searching outerwear for something that is actually a blazer, you will find almost nothing, and the garment is sitting in the category next door. The same applies in reverse to a shacket, which is filed with outerwear or with shirts depending on the shop, so it is worth trying both.

What does Snagfit tell you about a coat?

Snagfit files coats and jackets under Outerwear and returns a shoppable name, the main colour, and a short phrase on the material or cut, along with the search phrase it used to look for it.

It is generally good at the archetype, because the archetypes have distinctive silhouettes and that is exactly what a vision model reads well. Where it is weakest is length, for a practical reason: the hem of a coat is frequently cropped out of a screenshot, and a length it cannot see is a length it cannot name.

That makes the framing advice unusually specific here. Include the collar and the hem in the crop, even if it means the coat is smaller in the frame, because those two edges carry the lapel and the length between them.

Which coats will these words not find?

Vintage outerwear is the main case. Military surplus, older workwear and period tailoring use construction names that current shops do not stock, so the vocabulary here will describe the shape correctly and still find nothing on sale. Take the description to a resale marketplace instead.

The other case is a coat where the interest is entirely in the fabric: a bouclé, an unusual check, a printed lining shown at the cuff. The silhouette words will be right and useless, because what you actually want is the cloth. Search the fabric name with the plainest possible garment word attached to it.

Questions about naming coats and jackets

What is the difference between a jacket and a coat?

Length, and the line falls at the hip. A jacket ends at or above the hip and a coat continues past it. Shops are loose about this and will call a hip-length garment either word, so when a search for one returns little, trying the other is worth a few seconds.

What is a trench coat?

A trench coat is double breasted, belted at the waist, and traditionally cut in a cotton gabardine, with a storm flap across one shoulder and a collar that can be turned up and fastened. The belt and the double-breasted front together are what make it a trench rather than a general belted coat, and the shape is distinctive enough that naming it finds the garment on its own.

What is a peacoat?

A peacoat is short, hip to mid thigh, double breasted with wide notched lapels, and cut in heavy wool. The buttons are usually large and set in two visible columns. It is one of the archetypes worth learning by sight, because the wide lapel and short length together are hard to describe any other way.

What is the difference between a parka and a puffer?

A parka describes the shape and a puffer describes the construction, so a coat can be both. A parka is long, hooded, and usually has a drawstring waist and a fur or faux fur trim at the hood. A puffer is any coat quilted into channels and filled with down or synthetic insulation, at any length.

What does double breasted mean?

Double breasted means the front of the coat has two columns of buttons and the two sides overlap across the chest. Single breasted has one column and the sides meet without overlapping. It is one of the fastest things to read off a photo and it halves a set of search results immediately.

What is a notch lapel?

A notch lapel has a visible step cut into the outer edge where the collar meets the lapel, forming a small V-shaped gap. A peak lapel has no gap and the lapel point angles upward towards the shoulder. A shawl lapel is one continuous curve with no break at all. Naming the lapel is the most useful thing you can do on a tailored coat.

What is a shacket?

A shacket is a shirt-jacket: cut like an oversized shirt with a shirt collar and a button front, but made in a heavier fabric such as wool or brushed cotton and worn as a light layer. Shops file it under that word, so searching for a heavy overshirt or a thick shirt will find far less than searching for a shacket.

How do you describe a quilted coat?

Name the stitch pattern, because shops do. Channel quilting runs in straight horizontal lines, diamond quilting forms a lattice, and box quilting makes squares. The width of the channels matters too: wide baffles read as a heavy winter coat and narrow ones as a light layer.

What length words do shops use for outerwear?

Cropped stops above the waist, hip length stops at the hip, mid thigh and knee length are self-explanatory, and longline or maxi continues past the knee towards the ankle. Outerwear length is described far more loosely than skirt length, so treat these as approximate and read the photo against the wearer's knee.

Is a blazer a jacket?

A blazer is tailoring rather than outerwear, and shops file it separately. It has structured shoulders and lapels but no weather construction, no storm flap and usually no lining built for warmth. If you search outerwear categories for a blazer you will find little, which is usually why a search fails on one.

Should you photograph a coat open or closed?

Open, when you have the choice. An open coat shows the lapel shape, the lining and the way the front edge is built, and the lapel is the single most identifying feature on a tailored coat. Just make sure both front edges are still in frame, because the closure is part of the name.

What does Snagfit return for a coat?

Snagfit files coats and jackets under Outerwear and returns a shoppable name, the main colour, and a short phrase covering the material or cut, alongside the search phrase it used. On outerwear the part it most often misses is the length, because the hem is frequently cropped out of the photo, so that is the slot worth checking by hand.

Denim outerwear is named on the denim axis rather than this one, so a trucker jacket belongs with jeans and denim. The full set is on the Name the piece hub.

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