Home Name the piece Jeans and denim

Chapter 1

What are those jeans called?

Denim has more naming vocabulary than any other garment, and almost all of it describes four things. Get those four out of a photo and you have the phrase a shop typed.

What four things make up a denim listing?

Most clothing listings are loose about how much detail they carry. Denim is not. Open a shop's jeans category and the titles are almost mechanical: a rise, a leg shape, a length, and a wash, in that order, with the word jean somewhere in the middle.

That consistency is unusual and it is good news. It means denim is the one garment where knowing the vocabulary reliably changes what you find, because the shop has committed to using the same four slots you are searching with.

The four slots are worth naming before anything else. Rise is where the waistband sits. Leg shape is what happens between the knee and the hem. Length is where the hem stops. Wash is the colour and the fading. Every section below is one of those four.

What is the rise on a pair of jeans?

Rise is the distance from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband. It decides where the jeans sit on your body, and it changes the look of a pair more than any other single measurement.

  1. Low rise. The waistband sits on the hip bones, well below the navel. There is usually a visible gap of skin or clothing between the waistband and the natural waist.
  2. Mid rise. The waistband sits an inch or two below the navel. This is the most common rise and the one a shop is most likely to leave out of the title, because it is the default.
  3. High rise. The waistband sits at the navel or above it. On a photo the giveaway is that the waistband is level with or higher than the narrowest part of the torso.

Reading rise from a photo is easy when the waistband is visible and hard when it is not, which is often, because a top is usually covering it. When the waistband is hidden, read the back pockets instead. High rise jeans place the back pockets higher on the seat and closer together. Low rise pushes them down and apart.

If you genuinely cannot tell, leave rise out of the search rather than guessing. A wrong rise is worse than a missing one, because it filters out the pair you wanted.

How do you tell skinny, straight, bootcut and flare apart?

Leg shape is the part people most often get wrong, because several of the shapes look similar in a photo taken from the front. The reliable test is to compare the width at the knee against the width at the hem.

  1. Skinny. Narrow all the way down and following the calf. The fabric touches the leg along its whole length.
  2. Slim. Narrows from the knee down but does not grip the calf. The hem is visibly narrower than the knee.
  3. Straight. Roughly the same width from the knee to the hem, so the leg falls as a column. The hem is about as wide as the knee.
  4. Tapered. Roomy through the thigh, then narrowing towards the hem. Describes a direction, so a pair can be both loose and tapered.
  5. Bootcut. Widens a small amount from the knee, just enough to sit over a boot. The widening is subtle and stops at the hem.
  6. Flare. Widens noticeably from the knee and keeps widening. The shape reads as a triangle from the knee down.
  7. Wide leg. Wide from the hip all the way down, with no narrowing at the knee at all.
  8. Barrel or curved. Full through the thigh and knee, then curving inward at the hem, so the leg reads as rounded from the side.

The two pairs that cause the most confusion are straight against slim, and bootcut against flare. For the first, look at the hem width against the knee width. For the second, look at how much fabric sits in front of the shoe: bootcut skims the boot, flare covers it.

How do you describe the length of a pair of jeans?

Length on denim is described two ways at once, and shops use both. The first is where the hem falls, and the second is what the hem does when it meets the shoe.

For where it falls, the words are full length, ankle, cropped and capri, in descending order. Ankle stops at or just above the ankle bone, cropped stops higher and is usually paired with a wider leg, and capri stops below the knee.

For what the hem does, the term is the break. No break means the hem stops clear of the shoe with no fold. A slight break makes one soft crease across the front of the foot. A full break stacks fabric on top of the shoe. Break is a styling cue rather than a size, but it is worth reading, because a pair photographed with a heavy stack is usually longer than the wearer's actual inseam and the shop is selling them as full length.

The hem finish is separate again and it is searchable. A raw hem is cut and left unfinished so it frays. A stepped or asymmetric hem is cut at different heights front and back. Both of those are specific enough to carry a search almost on their own.

What does wash mean on denim?

Wash covers both how dark the denim is and what has been done to fade it. It is the slot where people spend the most effort and get the least return, so it is worth being honest about why.

The depth words are straightforward and worth using: raw or rigid for denim that has had no wash at all, then light, mid and dark wash, plus ecru and black for denim that is not indigo.

The finish words describe how the fading was done. Stonewash is an overall softening and lightening. Acid wash produces high contrast mottling. Whiskering is the fan of creases at the hip. Honeycombing is the same behind the knee. Distressing covers rips, abrasion and holes, and it is worth replacing that word with the specific damage and its location, such as knee rips or a frayed hem.

Here is the part to expect: you will rarely match a wash exactly. A wash is often specific to one production run, and denim keeps fading after it is sold. A pair photographed after two years of wear has a fade pattern that no shop currently stocks, because the wearer made it. Search the depth rather than the shade, accept a close match, and let it go.

How do you turn a photo of jeans into a search?

Take a screenshot of someone standing in a pair of jeans, waistband visible above the navel, legs falling straight and stopping just above the ankle bone, in a medium blue with soft fading at the thigh.

Read it in slots. Rise: the waistband is above the navel, so high rise. Leg: the hem is about as wide as the knee, so straight. Length: it stops above the ankle bone, so ankle or cropped. Wash: medium blue with light fading, so mid wash.

The phrase is high rise straight leg cropped jean mid wash. Six words, and every one of them is a word the shop typed. That is the whole exercise.

If it returns too little, drop the least certain slot first, which is usually the length. If it returns too much, add the fabric detail or the hem finish rather than the colour.

For the photography side of this, framing, motion blur and why a daylight shot beats an indoor one for reading wash, there is a separate post on finding jeans from a photo that goes further into the shot itself.

Which denim words change between shops?

Denim vocabulary drifts between markets and between men's and women's ranges, and knowing where it drifts saves a failed search.

Rise is described constantly on women's denim and much less often on men's, where the same information is carried by fit names such as slim, athletic, relaxed and loose. Those describe the thigh and seat rather than the leg opening, so an athletic fit can still be tapered.

Mom jeans and dad jeans are shape names rather than marketing: both mean a high rise with a relaxed straight or tapered leg, and shops file them under exactly those words. Boyfriend means a relaxed fit with a slight taper and usually a rolled hem. Girlfriend is the same idea, slimmer.

If a search using one vocabulary returns almost nothing, try the other one before assuming the garment is unavailable.

What does Snagfit tell you about a pair of jeans?

Upload the photo and Snagfit returns each garment it can see with a shoppable name, a category, the main colour, a short note on the material or cut, and the search phrase it used. Denim comes back filed under Bottom, and the leg shape and wash depth are usually already in the name.

The slot it most often leaves out is rise, for the same reason you struggle with it: the waistband is frequently hidden. That is the one worth adding by hand, using the back pocket test above, before you search anywhere else.

It is also the fastest way to check your own reading. If you decided the leg was slim and Snagfit says straight, one of you is looking at the hem width and one is not, and it takes a second to go back and settle it.

When will naming the denim not find the jeans?

Two cases where this chapter will not get you there, worth knowing before you spend time on it.

The first is a pair that is genuinely vintage. Cuts from earlier decades do not map onto current leg shape names, and the fade is decades of one person's wear. Search a resale marketplace by era and brand rather than by cut.

The second is a pair that has been altered. A hem taken up, a leg taken in, a waist nipped. The garment in the photo is not a garment anyone sells, and no vocabulary will find it. Read the shape it was before the alteration and search that.

Questions about naming jeans

What is the rise on a pair of jeans?

Rise is the distance from the crotch seam up to the top of the waistband, and it decides where the jeans sit on your body. Low rise sits on the hip bones, mid rise sits an inch or two below the navel, and high rise sits at the navel or above it. Rise changes a pair of jeans more than any other measurement, which is why shops put it first in the title.

How do I tell the rise from a photo?

Find the waistband and compare it to the navel, then to the hip bone. If the waistband is above the navel it is high rise, level with or just under it is mid rise, and sitting on the hips is low rise. When the waistband is hidden by a tucked-in top or a jacket, look at the pocket placement instead: high rise jeans put the back pockets higher and closer together.

What is the difference between straight leg and slim jeans?

Straight leg jeans keep roughly the same width from the knee to the hem, so the leg falls in a column. Slim jeans narrow gradually from the knee down without gripping the calf the way skinny jeans do. Both look similar at a glance in a photo, so check the hem: a straight leg hem is about as wide as the knee, and a slim hem is visibly narrower.

What does a tapered leg mean on jeans?

Tapered means the leg narrows from the knee to the hem, usually starting from a roomier thigh. It describes the direction of the shape rather than how tight the jeans are, so a pair can be both loose and tapered. Shops often write it as carrot or barrel when the taper is dramatic and the thigh is full.

What is the difference between bootcut and flare?

Bootcut jeans widen a small amount from the knee, just enough to sit over a boot, and the widening is subtle. Flare jeans widen much more and keep widening to the hem, so the shape reads as a triangle from the knee down. If you cannot tell from a photo, look at how much fabric sits in front of the shoe: bootcut skims it, flare covers it.

What does wash mean on denim?

Wash is the colour and finish of the denim after it has been treated, and it covers both how dark the indigo is and what has been done to fade it. Raw or rigid denim has had no wash at all. Light, mid and dark wash describe the depth of blue, and terms such as stonewash, acid wash and whiskering describe specific fading patterns rather than a colour.

Why can I never find the exact wash I saw?

Because a wash is often unique to one production run, and because denim keeps fading after it is bought. A pair photographed after two years of wear has a fade pattern that no shop is currently selling. Searching by wash depth, such as mid wash or dark indigo, gets you far closer than trying to match the exact shade in the picture.

What is the break on a pair of jeans?

The break is what the hem does when it meets the shoe. No break means the hem stops above the shoe with no fold, a slight break makes a single soft crease, and a full break stacks fabric on top of the foot. It is a length cue rather than a cut, and it is useful in a search because a shop selling cropped or ankle jeans will say so in the title.

What does selvedge denim mean?

Selvedge refers to denim woven on a narrow shuttle loom, which finishes the fabric edge so it does not fray. You can spot it in a photo if the hem is cuffed, because the outseam shows a clean band, often with a coloured line running through it. It describes how the fabric was made rather than the cut, so it narrows a search a long way when it applies.

How do you describe distressed jeans in a search?

Name the type of damage rather than calling them distressed, because that word covers everything. Rips at the knee, abrasion on the thigh, a frayed or raw hem, and paint splatter are all searched for separately by shops. Adding the location, such as knee rips, gets you far closer than the general word on its own.

What is the search phrase for jeans built from?

Four parts, in this order: rise, leg shape, length, and wash. High rise straight leg cropped jean in mid wash is all four, and it is close to how a shop would file the same garment. Snagfit builds a phrase of four to eight words in this shape for each garment it finds, so denim usually comes back with the leg shape and the wash already in it.

Do men's and women's denim use the same words?

Mostly, with two exceptions. Rise is described far more often on women's denim, and men's denim uses fit names such as athletic, relaxed and loose that describe the thigh and seat rather than the leg opening. If a search using one vocabulary returns little, trying the other one is often the whole fix.

Trousers that are not denim are named on a different axis, by pleats and taper rather than rise and wash, and they have a chapter of their own. The full set is on the Name the piece hub.

Upload a photo