Home Name the piece Skirts

Chapter 6

What shape is that skirt?

A skirt borrows half its vocabulary from dresses and half from trousers. The shape words come from one, the rise comes from the other, and you need both.

How is a skirt named?

A dress is named by where its waist sits and what its skirt does. A pair of trousers is named by rise, cut and length. A skirt sits between the two and takes something from each.

From dresses it takes the shape vocabulary: pencil, A-line, circle, pleated, tiered. From trousers it takes rise, because a skirt has a waistband and that waistband can sit high, mid or low on the body, which changes the garment as much as the shape does.

There is one advantage to naming a skirt over naming a dress: the length words mean more. A skirt's length is measured from the waist rather than from the shoulder, so mini, midi and maxi cover a much narrower range and shops disagree about them far less.

Where does the waistband sit?

Read this first, because a high rise pencil skirt and a low rise pencil skirt are different products filed separately.

  1. High rise. At or above the navel, often at the narrowest point of the waist.
  2. Mid rise. Just below the navel. The most common, and frequently unstated.
  3. Low rise. On the hips, below the navel by a clear margin.
  4. Drop waist. Fitted over the hip with the flare starting below it, so the skirt reads as two sections.

The recurring problem is an untucked top covering the waistband, which is how most people wear a skirt. When that happens, look at where the flare begins instead. A skirt flares from its waist seam, so the point where the fabric starts widening tells you roughly where the waistband is, even when you cannot see it.

How do you tell skirt shapes apart in a still photo?

Most of these look similar in a static photo, so each one below includes the thing that actually separates it.

  1. Pencil. Straight and close to the body, no widening. Look for a slit or vent at the back, which it needs in order to walk.
  2. Straight. Falls straight down without following the body as closely as a pencil, and usually has no slit.
  3. A-line. Widens in a straight line from the waist. The fabric hangs in flat panels rather than waves.
  4. Circle. Cut from a full circle, so it has far more volume and falls in soft waves. Swings out when the wearer turns.
  5. Skater. A short circle skirt, high on the waist, ending above the knee.
  6. Wrap. One panel crossing over another and tying, with a visible diagonal opening down the front or side.
  7. Tulip. Two overlapping front panels curving inward at the hem, so the outline narrows towards the bottom.
  8. Tiered. Horizontal panels, each wider than the one above, gathered at every join.
  9. Godet. Triangular panels inserted into the seams from the hip or knee, adding flare only at the bottom.
  10. Trumpet. Fitted to the mid thigh or knee, then flaring out sharply. Sometimes sold as a fishtail.
  11. Bubble. Full through the middle and gathered back in at the hem, so the shape rounds out and returns.
  12. Sarong. A rectangle wrapped and knotted at the hip, with the knot visible.

What kind of pleats are those?

A pleated skirt is a category of its own in most shops, and the pleat type is specific enough to carry a search almost by itself.

  1. Knife pleats. Every fold faces the same direction, so the surface shows a repeating series of sharp edges all running the same way.
  2. Box pleats. Folds turn away from each other in pairs, leaving a flat panel of fabric sitting forward between them.
  3. Inverted box pleats. Folds turn towards each other, so the join sits at the front.
  4. Sunray or accordion. Narrow pleats radiating from the waist, each one wider at the hem than at the top.

One more distinction shops make: pressed pleats hold a sharp crease along their whole length, while unpressed pleats are stitched at the waist and left to fall softly. In a photo, pressed pleats show hard lines from waist to hem and unpressed ones blur out below the hip.

A pleated skirt in a school-uniform check has its own name again: a kilt is knife pleated at the back and sides with a flat wrapped front panel, usually fastened with a pin.

What do mini, midi and maxi mean on a skirt?

Mini ends above the knee, midi somewhere on the calf, and maxi at the ankle or floor. Micro is used for anything short, and there is usually a knee length option sitting between mini and midi.

These hold up better than the same words on a dress because the measurement starts at the waist. A midi dress on a tall person and a midi dress on a short one end in different places; a midi skirt ends on the calf either way.

So on a skirt, length is a term worth including in a search rather than dropping first, which is the opposite of the advice for dresses.

What is the difference between a slit and a vent?

An opening in a skirt is a searchable feature, and shops distinguish between two kinds.

A vent is a short opening at a seam, usually at the back of a pencil skirt, cut only far enough to let the wearer walk. A slit is longer and deliberate, and shops describe where it sits: front slit, side slit, thigh slit, or a wrap front that creates an opening without a cut.

If the skirt in your photo has a visible opening, name it. It is a specific term, it appears in listing titles, and it separates two skirts that are otherwise identical in shape and length.

Why is a skirt hard to read when nobody is moving?

Skirts are the garment most misread from a single frame, because most of what distinguishes them only appears in motion.

A circle skirt hanging still looks much like a generous A-line. A godet skirt at rest looks straight, because the inserted panels only open when the wearer moves. A sunray pleat that has not been walked in reads as a plain fabric.

If you have a choice of frames, take one where the skirt is settling rather than either fully static or mid swing. Fully static hides the cut, and mid swing exaggerates it: a photo caught in a turn makes an A-line look like a circle, and searching for the fuller shape overshoots.

When only a still frame exists, judge by the waist and the fabric weight rather than by the outline. A circle skirt has more fabric gathered at the waist seam than an A-line does, and that bulk is visible even at rest.

How do you turn a photo of a skirt into a search?

A screenshot of someone in a navy skirt. The waistband is visible above the navel. The surface shows narrow folds running vertically, each one wider at the bottom than the top. The hem falls at the middle of the calf. The fabric is light enough to move.

Rise: above the navel, so high rise. Surface: narrow folds widening towards the hem, so sunray rather than knife. Length: mid calf, so midi.

The phrase is navy high rise sunray pleated midi skirt. If it returns too little, swap sunray for accordion, since shops split evenly between the two words for the same construction.

For the photography side of this, why a still photo hides pleating and movement can help, there is a separate post on finding a skirt from a photo that goes further into the shot itself.

What does Snagfit tell you about a skirt?

Snagfit files a skirt under Bottom and returns a shoppable name, the main colour and a short phrase on the material or cut, alongside the search phrase it used.

Pleating is one of its stronger reads, because a pleated surface is a repeating visual pattern that shows clearly even at a moderate size in the frame. Shape it handles reasonably when the skirt is the dominant part of the photo.

Rise is the weak point, and for the ordinary reason: the waistband is under a top in most photos of a person in a skirt. That is the word to supply yourself, using the flare-start trick above.

Which skirts have no name to search for?

Skirts made from a single wrapped or draped length of fabric are the main gap. If the garment is essentially a rectangle knotted at the hip, no shape word applies, and the useful search is the construction: wrap skirt, tie waist, draped.

The other case is a skirt that is part of a two piece set. Matching skirt and top sets are sold as one product, and a search for the skirt alone will miss it entirely. If the fabric of the top matches the skirt exactly, try searching for a co-ord or a two piece set before you keep looking for the skirt on its own.

Questions about naming skirts

What is a pencil skirt?

A pencil skirt is cut straight and close to the body from the waist to the hem, with no widening at all, usually ending at or just below the knee. Because it does not flare, it almost always has a slit or a vent at the back so the wearer can walk. The slit is a good way to confirm it in a photo.

What is the difference between an A-line and a circle skirt?

An A-line skirt widens in a straight line from the waist, so the outline makes a capital A and the fabric hangs flat. A circle skirt is cut from a full circle of fabric, so it has far more volume, falls in soft waves rather than flat panels, and swings out when the wearer turns.

What is a skater skirt?

A skater skirt is a short circle skirt, usually sitting high on the waist and ending above the knee, cut full enough to flare out when it moves. Shops file it under that word rather than as a short circle skirt, so searching skater directly is faster.

What are knife pleats?

Knife pleats are folds that all face the same direction, so the skirt shows a repeating series of sharp diagonal edges running the same way around the body. They are the most common pleat on a skirt and the easiest to identify, because the fold direction never alternates.

What is the difference between box pleats and inverted box pleats?

Box pleats fold away from each other in pairs, so the fabric between them sits forward as a flat panel. Inverted box pleats fold towards each other, so the join sits at the front and the fabric behind it is hidden. Both give a flatter front than knife pleats do.

What are sunray pleats?

Sunray pleats, also called accordion pleats, are narrow and radiate outward from the waist, so each pleat is thinner at the top and wider at the hem. They need a lightweight fabric to hold the shape and are common on midi skirts. The widening is what separates them from knife pleats.

What is a tulip skirt?

A tulip skirt has two front panels that overlap and curve inward towards the hem, so the outline is wider at the hip and narrower at the bottom, like an upturned flower. It is distinctive enough that naming it narrows a search immediately, since few other skirt shapes get confused for it.

How do you tell the waist height of a skirt in a photo?

Find the waistband and compare it to the navel. A high rise skirt sits at or above the navel, a mid rise sits just below it, and a low rise sits on the hips. When a top is untucked and covering the waistband, look at where the skirt's flare begins instead, since flare starts at the waist seam.

Are skirt length words more reliable than dress length words?

Yes, noticeably. Skirt lengths are measured from the waist rather than the shoulder, so mini, midi and maxi describe a much narrower range on a skirt than the same words do on a dress. A midi skirt is reliably somewhere on the calf, which is not true of a midi dress.

What is a godet skirt?

A godet skirt has triangular panels of fabric inserted into the seams from the hip or knee downward, adding flare only at the bottom. From the front at rest it can look straight, and the extra fabric only shows when the wearer moves, which is why it is easy to miss in a still photo.

Why does my skirt search return the wrong shape?

Usually because the skirt was photographed at rest and its flare is not visible, or because it was photographed mid movement and looks fuller than it is. A circle skirt standing still can read as A-line, and an A-line skirt caught in a turn can read as a circle. The waist seam and the fabric weight are better cues than the outline.

What does Snagfit return for a skirt?

Snagfit files a skirt under Bottom and returns a shoppable name, the main colour and a short note on the material or cut. It reads pleating well, because a pleated surface is a strong visual pattern, and it is weakest on waist height when an untucked top covers the waistband.

The same shape words appear on the bottom half of a dress, where the waist is decided by the bodice instead of a waistband. That is the dresses chapter. The full set is on the Name the piece hub.

Upload a photo