Home Name the piece Necklines and collars

Chapter 4

What is that shape at the neck called?

Every other chapter here covers one family of garment. This one covers a detail that appears on all of them, and it is the most dependable word in the whole vocabulary.

Why is the neckline the most reliable word to search?

Most clothing vocabulary is approximate. Shops disagree about where midi ends, whether a coat is mid thigh or knee length, and what counts as oversized. Neckline names are different, because they describe geometry rather than proportion.

A square neck is square everywhere in the world. So is a halter, a sweetheart, a one shoulder. There is nothing to disagree about, so shops use the terms consistently, which means adding one to a search filters hard and reliably.

That makes the neckline the single highest-value word you can recover from a photo, and it is the one people most often leave out.

What is the difference between a neckline and a collar?

Worth settling before the lists, because shops treat them as separate fields.

A neckline is the shape of the hole cut into the garment. Every garment has one, including a t-shirt.

A collar is a separate piece of fabric attached around that opening. Only some garments have one, and a garment with a collar still has a neckline underneath it.

So a shirt has a point collar attached to a round neckline. Searching for a shirt with a round neck will find you almost nothing, because the shop filed it by the collar.

What are the common neckline shapes called?

These are openings with no collar attached. Each one is a shape you can read directly off a photo.

  1. Crew. Round, sitting at the base of the throat, usually with a narrow rib band. Written as round neck in some British listings.
  2. Scoop. Round but noticeably deeper and wider, showing the collarbones.
  3. V neck. Two straight edges meeting at a point. Deep V or plunge when it continues well down the chest.
  4. Square. A flat horizontal edge across the chest with two vertical sides. Unmistakable, and searchable.
  5. Sweetheart. Two rounded lobes across the bust meeting in a dip at the centre.
  6. Boat or bateau. Wide and shallow, running almost straight from shoulder to shoulder.
  7. Halter. Straps or fabric passing behind the neck, leaving the shoulders and upper back bare.
  8. Off shoulder. The opening sits below both shoulders, with the garment held across the upper arms.
  9. One shoulder. Covers one shoulder and leaves the other bare. Also written asymmetric.
  10. Cowl. Cut so extra fabric drapes in soft folds at the front instead of lying flat.
  11. Keyhole. A closed neckline with a cut-out below it, usually round or teardrop shaped.
  12. High neck. Sits above the base of the throat with no collar attached.

What is the difference between a turtleneck, a mock neck and a funnel neck?

Four constructions, all standing up around the throat, and shops distinguish them carefully even though most people do not.

  1. Turtleneck. A tall collar folded back down on itself, so there are two layers around the throat.
  2. Roll neck. The British word for the same thing.
  3. Mock neck. Stands up but does not fold, so one layer, usually sitting lower.
  4. Funnel neck. Stands up and away from the throat rather than hugging it, making a wider tube.

The fold is the whole test. Look at the top edge: if it doubles back on itself you have a turtleneck or a roll neck, and if it stops cleanly you have a mock or a funnel. On knitwear this distinction is one of the few things that reliably separates two otherwise identical jumpers.

Which collars are worth knowing by name?

A collar is attached fabric, and its shape is usually easier to read in a photo than a neckline is, because it stands out from the garment.

  1. Point. The standard shirt collar, with two pointed tips angled downward.
  2. Spread. The same construction with the points angled further apart, leaving a wider gap at the throat.
  3. Button down. A point collar whose tips fasten to the shirt with small buttons.
  4. Camp. Lies flat and open against the chest with no button at the throat, forming a notch where the sides meet. Also sold as Cuban or revere.
  5. Grandad, band or mandarin. A short upright band with no fold-down section attached.
  6. Peter Pan. Flat, with two small rounded ends meeting at the front.
  7. Polo. A soft ribbed collar over a short button placket.
  8. Shawl. One continuous curve with no break or point, seen on cardigans and dinner jackets.

Lapels are a separate thing again and belong to tailored outerwear, where they are the most identifying feature on the garment. Those are in the coats chapter.

How do you read a neckline that hair or a scarf is covering?

The neckline is the detail most likely to be covered in a real photo: long hair, a necklace, a scarf, a bag strap, a jacket worn open over the top.

When the centre is hidden, read the edges. The width of the opening at the shoulders separates a boat neck from a crew, and it is usually still visible. A shoulder seam pulled inward towards the neck suggests a narrow opening; one sitting out on the arm suggests a wide or off shoulder cut.

When the shape is genuinely unreadable, leave the neckline out of the search entirely. A wrong neckline term is worse than a missing one, because it filters out the garment you are looking for. This is the opposite of most clothing words, where a near-miss still helps.

What if the collar is popped up or folded down?

Collars are adjustable in a way necklines are not, and the photo shows you one setting rather than the garment.

A collar popped up reads as a stand collar. The same collar folded down reads as a point collar. A shirt worn under a jumper shows only its collar, and the garment you are describing may be the shirt while the one you want is the knit.

When a collar looks unusual, ask whether it is unusual or simply being worn that way. Searching the neutral version is the safer bet.

What is the back of the garment doing?

Something a photo almost never tells you, and it explains a share of failed searches.

A dress can have a high, plain front and a deep scoop, a cowl, a tie or a cut-out at the back. Shops describe both sides in the listing, and on occasion wear the back is frequently the feature the garment was designed around.

So if a front-view search is going nowhere on a dress that looked unremarkable from the front, consider that the back is what made it worth photographing, and try adding open back or low back to the search.

How do you turn a photo of a neckline into a search?

A screenshot of someone in a cream knitted top. The opening runs wide across the collarbones and sits high at the front. The shoulder seams have been pulled inward. There is a narrow rib finish around the edge and no collar.

Wide across, high at the front, no depth: that is a boat neck rather than a scoop. No attached fabric, so a neckline rather than a collar. Rib finish plus a knitted fabric puts it in knitwear.

The phrase is cream boat neck knitted top. Four words, one of which does most of the filtering. If it returns too little, swap boat for bateau, since a few retailers only use the French term.

Does Snagfit name the neckline for you?

Snagfit returns a short phrase covering the material, pattern or cut alongside each garment name, and on tops and dresses the neckline is frequently what lands in that field.

It reads geometric necklines well, because a square or a V is a clear shape in an image. It is least reliable on the turtleneck family, where the difference between a folded and an unfolded collar is a few millimetres of fabric in a small part of the frame.

If the neck is the detail you care about, crop to the upper body before uploading. A neckline occupies a small fraction of a full-length shot, and cropping it to fill the frame is the single change that most improves what comes back on this particular detail.

Which necklines have no name at all?

Draped and twisted necklines are the main gap. A top with fabric knotted, gathered or twisted at the front has no standard name, and shops resort to describing it: twist front, ruched neckline, knot detail. Use their plain description rather than looking for a term that does not exist.

The other case is a neckline that only exists because of how the garment is being worn. A shirt with two buttons undone reads as a V. A sweatshirt pulled off one shoulder reads as asymmetric. Neither is what the shop is selling, and searching the worn shape rather than the cut shape is a reliable way to find nothing.

Questions about necklines and collars

What is the neck hole of a shirt called?

The neck hole of a shirt is called the neckline. The word covers the shape of the opening, so a round one is a crew neck, a pointed one is a V neck, and a wide shallow one is a boat neck. On a shirt with a collar, the collar is a separate piece sewn around the neckline, and shops usually name the shirt by its collar instead.

What is the difference between a neckline and a collar?

A neckline is the shape of the opening cut into the garment. A collar is a separate piece of fabric attached around that opening. Every garment has a neckline, and only some have a collar, which is why the two words are not interchangeable in a shop listing.

What is a crew neck?

A crew neck is a round opening that sits close to the base of the neck, usually finished with a narrow band of ribbing. It is the default neckline on t-shirts and sweatshirts, which is why shops often leave it out of the title. British listings sometimes write round neck for the same shape.

What is the difference between a crew neck and a scoop neck?

Both are round, and the difference is depth. A crew neck sits at the base of the throat, while a scoop neck drops noticeably lower and is usually wider as well. If a photo shows collarbone below the opening, it is a scoop rather than a crew.

What is a boat neck?

A boat neck, also written bateau, is a wide shallow opening that runs almost straight across from shoulder to shoulder. It shows the collarbones but sits high at the front, which is what separates it from a scoop. The width is the identifying feature rather than the depth.

What is a sweetheart neckline?

A sweetheart neckline curves in two rounded lobes across the bust, meeting in a small dip at the centre, so the top edge traces the shape of a heart. It appears most often on occasion dresses and corseted tops, and naming it narrows a search quickly because it is distinctive.

What is a cowl neck?

A cowl neck is cut so that extra fabric drapes in soft folds at the front of the opening rather than lying flat. It needs a fluid fabric to work, so it appears on knitwear and satin far more often than on cotton. The folds are the identifying feature, and they move as the wearer moves.

What is the difference between a turtleneck and a mock neck?

A turtleneck has a tall collar that folds back down on itself, so there are two layers around the throat. A mock neck stands up but does not fold, so there is one layer and it usually sits lower. A roll neck is the British term for a turtleneck, and a funnel neck stands away from the throat rather than hugging it.

What is a camp collar?

A camp collar lies flat and open against the chest with no button at the throat, forming a small notch where the two sides meet. It appears mainly on short sleeve shirts. Shops also call it a Cuban collar or a revere collar, so if one term returns little the other is worth trying.

What is a grandad collar?

A grandad collar is a short upright band around the neck with no fold-down section attached. It is also sold as a band collar or a mandarin collar, and the three terms describe the same construction. It is common on linen shirts and on collarless overshirts.

How do you read a neckline when hair or a necklace covers it?

Look at the shoulder line and the seam rather than the opening itself. The width of the opening at the shoulders separates a boat neck from a crew, and a visible shoulder seam pulled inward suggests a wide neckline. When the front is genuinely hidden, search the garment without the neckline term rather than guessing one.

Does the back of a garment have a different neckline?

Often, and a photo usually shows only one side. A dress can have a high front and a deep scoop or a cowl at the back, and shops describe both in the listing. If a front-view search is not finding the garment, the back may be its most distinctive feature and worth guessing at.

Does naming the neckline actually change search results?

Yes, more reliably than most clothing terms, because neckline names are geometric and shops use them consistently. Square neck, halter and sweetheart are unambiguous, so adding one filters a category hard. The exception is crew neck, which is so common that shops frequently leave it unwritten.

The other end of a top is the sleeve, which has its own vocabulary for length, volume and cuff. Those words are in the names for every part of a sleeve, and the rest of the set is on the Name the piece hub.

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