The Thread: notes on shopping an outfit from a photo

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How do you shop a runway or street style photo?

A runway photo shows a garment that may not go on sale for six months, if it ever does. A street style photo shows clothes you can buy today. Telling the two apart before you search saves the disappointment.

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Two kinds of fashion photograph fill camera rolls, and they look similar enough that people search them the same way. They behave completely differently, and the difference is about whether the garment exists to buy.

What is the fastest way to tell them apart?

Look at the floor, the light and the background.

A runway photograph is shot straight on, under strong even lighting, with a plain backdrop and the model walking towards the camera. The floor is a raised platform or a treated surface. There is usually a lot of empty space above and below the figure, because the photographer is shooting a tall narrow subject from a fixed position.

A street style photograph is outdoors on a pavement. The light is natural, the background is a street with other people in it, and the angle is usually off straight because the photographer moved to get the shot. The person is often walking, sometimes posing, and the crop is looser.

There is a third category worth naming: the front row and backstage shots that come out of the same events. Front row is seated, so half the outfit is hidden. Backstage is dressing room lighting, which is unflattering to colour.

Why can a runway garment be impossible to buy?

Because a show is a proposal rather than a shop.

A collection presented on a runway is shown to buyers and press. What happens next is that buyers place orders, and the brand edits the range based on what sold and what got attention. Pieces that attracted no orders are dropped before production, which means they never exist beyond the sample made for the show.

Those samples are frequently made in a single size, sometimes by hand, and often finished in ways that would not survive production. A garment can be photographed from twelve angles, shared across every platform, discussed for a week, and then simply not made.

The traditional schedule also puts the show well ahead of retail. An autumn collection shown in February typically reaches shops from around July onwards, so even a piece that does go into production is months away when you first see it. Some brands run see-now-buy-now shows where part of the collection is available immediately, and which model a brand uses is something the brand states publicly.

Snagfit searches current shopping listings. If nothing is listed, there is nothing to return, and what comes back is the closest thing that is actually for sale. For a distinctive runway piece, that can be a long way off, and that is an honest result rather than a failure. The same logic that applies to screen costumes applies here: some garments were never products.

Why is street style such a good source?

Because everything about how it is shot happens to suit a garment search.

It is daylight, so colour is reported accurately, which matters because colour is one of the fields recorded per garment. It is full length, so the hem, the shoulder line and the shoes are all in frame. It is shot by someone who is trying to make the outfit visible, so the framing is generous and the person is usually separated from the background.

And the clothes are real. Someone owns them, bought them somewhere, and is wearing them in public. That is the strongest possible signal that the garment exists at retail.

The one weakness is motion. Street style photographers shoot people walking, and a walking frame carries motion blur in exactly the places you want detail: the hem of a coat, the swing of a bag, the foot. If the photo came from a set or a gallery, scrolling for a frame where the person is standing still is worth the twenty seconds.

How should you crop each of them?

Differently, because they have different amounts of waste in the frame.

A runway photo usually has a large amount of empty backdrop above the head and below the feet, plus dark space at the edges. That is dead weight. Crop to the person first, which often removes half the pixels without losing anything, then crop again to the garment you want.

A street style photo usually has a busy background rather than an empty one: other people, cars, a doorway, a crowd of photographers. That is worse than empty space, because a background with people in it contains other garments. Crop tight to the subject.

In both cases the goal is the same one from how to crop a photo for a better match. Snagfit downscales every upload to 1280 pixels on the longest side, so whatever share of the frame the garment occupies is the share of those pixels it gets.

What about magazine editorial photographs?

A mixed source, and worth treating carefully.

Editorial photography is lit for mood. That means colour is unreliable in the same way it is for film stills, and the darker and more atmospheric the shoot, the less the picture tells you about the actual shade of the garment.

More particular to editorial: garments are routinely pinned, clipped, taped and folded to fit the model on the day. A coat that appears fitted through the waist may be a straight coat with three clips down the back. What the picture shows is the styled silhouette, and the garment as sold can be a different shape.

The clothes themselves are usually real products, often from a current or upcoming collection, so the direction of the search is right. Expect the description to follow the styled shape rather than the sold one, and read the listing photo carefully when a result comes back.

Does a look book or a brand campaign search better?

Yes, and it is an underrated source.

A look book image is made by the brand to show the garment as it is sold. Good light, plain background, full length, no pinning, correct colour. That is close to ideal input for a garment search, and the results are correspondingly accurate.

Campaign imagery sits between look book and editorial. It is styled and lit for effect, but the garment is normally the point of the picture, so it stays visible.

If you have found a look you like on a runway and you want to search it properly, checking whether the brand published a look book of the same collection is worth a minute. The look book image of the same garment is a much better search input than the runway shot of it.

Does the venue tell you anything useful?

More than you would think, because it narrows the brand.

Shows are held in named venues on published schedules, and the major weeks in London, Milan, Paris and New York each publish a calendar of who is showing on which day. If a photo is tagged with a venue and a date, the brand is usually findable from the calendar alone, and knowing the brand changes the search from a visual one into a catalogue one.

Street style photographs are frequently captioned with the show the person was arriving at, for the same reason. That does not tell you what they are wearing, but it does tell you the week and the city, which dates the outfit and tells you which season's stock to look in.

None of this is something a photo search can do for you. It is the part you do yourself before or after the upload, and it is often faster than any amount of re-cropping.

What about the accessories in these photos?

Accessories are the part of a runway image that is most likely to be buyable and least likely to be searchable.

Buyable, because bags, shoes and jewellery are the pieces a house is most confident will sell, so they are the ones most likely to reach production. Handbags in particular are frequently the commercial centre of a collection.

Hard to search, because they are small in a full-length frame. A shoe at the bottom of a runway shot is a few hundred pixels at best, and a piece of jewellery is smaller still. That is a crop problem with a crop solution, but it depends on the original photograph having enough resolution to survive being cropped into.

If the accessory is what you want, look for a detail shot from the same show before you settle for cropping the full-length one. Most shows are photographed at several focal lengths, and a close shot of the bag almost always exists somewhere in the set.

What is realistic to expect from a runway search?

Set the expectation before you upload, and the result stops being disappointing.

For a garment in a recognisable everyday category, a trench coat, a knit, a straight trouser, expect close matches at a range of prices. The shape is common enough that plenty of brands make something similar.

For a piece that is unusual, an exaggerated shoulder, an unrepeatable print, a sculptural shape, expect the search to reach for the nearest ordinary garment and land some distance away. There is nothing similar listed because nothing similar is made.

For a piece that is genuinely in production and in shops, expect it to be found, because at that point it is an ordinary shopping search.

If what you want is the feeling of a runway look rather than the exact piece, that is a different and much more achievable goal. Building an outfit around one piece covers how to get there without buying eight garments, and finding a cheaper version of a designer piece covers how to describe what makes a piece look expensive so a search can find that instead of the label.

Common questions

Can you buy clothes you saw on a runway?

Sometimes, and usually not for months. A runway show presents a collection that typically reaches shops one to two seasons later, and a meaningful share of what walks is a sample that never goes into production at all. Snagfit will find the closest currently listed garment to what you saw, which for a runway look is a similar piece rather than the piece itself.

How do you tell a runway photo from a street style photo?

Look at the floor, the light and the background. Runway photos are shot straight on, under strong even lighting, with a plain backdrop and the model walking towards the camera. Street style is shot outdoors on a pavement, often at an angle, in natural light with a busy background of people and buildings. Street style clothes are almost always buyable now; runway ones often are not.

Are street style photos good for outfit search?

They are among the best sources. Street style is shot in daylight by a photographer who wants the outfit visible, usually full length, with the person standing or walking towards the camera. That produces sharp, well-lit, full-garment images. The main weakness is that the photographer often catches a moment mid-stride, so scrolling for a still frame from the same set is worth doing.

Why does Snagfit not find the exact runway piece?

Because the piece is often not for sale anywhere yet, or ever. Snagfit searches current shopping listings, so it can only return garments that a retailer is selling right now. A coat that walked in a show two weeks ago has no listing to find. What comes back instead is the closest available garment, which for a distinctive runway piece may be a long way off.

What is a runway sample and why does it matter?

A runway sample is a garment made specifically for the show, often in one size and sometimes by hand. Collections are edited after a show based on buyer orders and press response, and pieces that do not attract orders are dropped before production. That is why a garment can be photographed, widely shared and discussed, and then never exist to buy.

How long after a show do clothes reach shops?

The traditional schedule puts a show one to two seasons ahead of retail, so an autumn collection shown in February appears in shops from roughly the following July onwards. Some brands run see-now-buy-now shows where a portion of the collection is available immediately. Which model a given brand uses is stated by that brand, and it is worth checking rather than assuming.

Should you crop a runway photo before uploading it?

Yes, to the garment you want. A runway photo is usually full length with a lot of empty backdrop above and below the model, so a large share of the frame is carrying no information. Cropping to the person, then to the specific piece, gives Snagfit far more pixels of garment to read. Snagfit downscales every upload to 1280 pixels on the longest side, so the crop decides how much of that goes on the clothes.

Is a magazine editorial photo a good source?

It is a mixed one. Editorial photography is lit for mood rather than clarity, often heavily styled, and frequently shot with garments pinned, clipped, or altered to fit the model. That means the shape in the picture may not match the shape of the garment as sold. The clothes are usually real products, though, so the search direction is right even when the silhouette is misleading.

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